Cookbooks come and go, but some are still banging years later. The Sugar Club by Peter Gordon is one of them — first published in 1997 and still standing tall. Layout, photos, recipes… all on point. And tucked inside is the absolute classic: Watermelon & Feta Salad. Still used today, still in Ottolenghi’s repertoire, and still on menus around the world. It’s as relevant now as the day it hit the page
About the Book
Peter Gordon’s The Sugar Club is a real one. It’s not just a nostalgia piece — the recipes hold up, the photography is timeless, and the whole thing feels like it could have been printed yesterday. This one’s been on my shelf for decades, signed by the man himself after we cooked together at the Tresanton Hotel in St Mawes, Cornwall. That signature makes it special… even if I’ve never cooked a recipe from this or any of the other 700 books I own.
Recipe – Watermelon & Feta
Fresh, simple, and perfect for this time of year. Late summer means watermelons are in peak nick — sweet, juicy, and ready to steal the show. This recipe balances that sweetness with salty feta and fresh herbs. Add a little grilled chicken or — better yet — some of my land-based cold-smoked salmon, and you’ve got a plate that’ll turn heads.
My Salmon Pairing
I’m not putting up a direct “copy” of Peter’s dish — he’s already nailed it. But here’s how I’d pair it: thick slices of my 7-day dry-aged, cold-smoked Danish salmon alongside that watermelon & feta. The salt from the salmon, the sweetness from the melon, and the tang from the feta… it’s a summer plate worth repeating.
(Insert photo of salmon + watermelon – Alt text: “Royal Nyborg Smokehouse salmon with watermelon & feta salad”)
My Take
Some recipes are trends; this one’s a keeper. I’ve seen it on menus from London to Auckland and it always works. It’s in that rare group of dishes that don’t age out. And the book? If you see a copy, grab it. Then stick it on the shelf — or better yet, cook from it.
Try It Yourself
Get yourself a ripe watermelon, some crumbly feta, and a fillet of my dry-aged salmon. Plate it up, pour something cold, and thank me later.
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