From the Shelf: For the Love of Food by Dennis Cotter

A curveball this week: Dennis Cotter’s For the Love of Food. Pure vegetarian cooking that makes you forget there’s no meat or fish — standout recipe: maple chilli roasted beetroot with glazed pecans.

From the Shelf: For the Love of Food by Dennis Cotter

This week’s pick is a curveball. A book that feels different the moment you read it. You get halfway through before you realise — there’s no meat, no fish, nothing. It’s vegetarian from start to finish. And you don’t miss it for a second.

The book is For the Love of Food by Dennis Cotter. For three decades he ran Paradiso in Cork, long before vegetarian cooking was fashionable. The Guardian once called him the best vegetarian chef in the British Isles. Back when I started cooking, the “veg option” on most menus was a tomato tart or a mushroom risotto. Some restaurants still haven’t moved past that. Dennis went further. He made vegetables worth the main stage.

This book’s also personal to me. The food styling was done by an old friend and colleague, chef Fergal Conolly. Respect, brother. That makes this one extra special.

The Standout Recipe

The dish that grabs me here: maple chilli roasted beetroot with glazed pecans, wild rice, butter greens and orange yoghurt. Sweetness, spice, crunch, freshness — everything working in balance.

It’s straightforward to make. Roast the beets with maple and chilli, glaze the pecans, cook the rice, stir through greens, and bring it all together with a sharp orange yoghurt. Some parts can be prepped in advance, then finished when you’re ready to serve. It’s the kind of dish you can put in the middle of the table and everyone — kids, family, guests — will dig in.

Why It Earns Shelf Space

Vegetables here aren’t an afterthought. They’re treated with the same respect as any cut of meat or fish. That’s the point. Cotter shows just how much can be done when you let produce lead the way. That’s why this book stays on my shelf.

Save it. Cook it. Pass it on.

Links: Paradiso Restaurant · Dennis Cotter in The Guardian · About Royal Nyborg Smokehouse

From the Shelf: Arabesque by Claudia Roden — Roast Shoulder of Lamb with Couscous & Date Stuffing

Claudia Roden’s Arabesque (2005) is more than a cookbook — a journey through Turkey, Lebanon, and Morocco. Standout dish: Roast Shoulder of Lamb with Couscous & Date Stuffing.

Claudia Roden was born in Cairo, raised in London, and first published back in 1968. She studied art, but it was food that became her true canvas.

Her Arabesque (2005) is a journey through Turkey, Lebanon, and Morocco. Open its pages and you’re in the market streets — colours, smells, spices, and noise, all packed into recipes that speak of culture and history.

One dish that stands tall:

Roast Shoulder of Lamb with Couscous and Date Stuffing.
Slow-roasted lamb, couscous, sweet dates tucked inside. It’s generous. It’s layered. It feels like Middle Eastern hospitality at your own table.

But Arabesque isn’t just about cooking. It’s about memory, identity, and the way food connects people. Roden captured that — and it’s why this book still belongs on the shelf.

At Royal Nyborg Smokehouse, I believe the same: food is more than flavour. It’s craft, patience, and story — carried through generations.

From the Shelf: River Cottage MEAT

From the Shelf: Sugar Club , Peter Gordon

Cookbooks come and go, but some are still banging years later. The Sugar Club by Peter Gordon is one of them — first published in 1997 and still standing tall. Layout, photos, recipes… all on point. And tucked inside is the absolute classic: Watermelon & Feta Salad. Still used today, still in Ottolenghi’s repertoire, and still on menus around the world. It’s as relevant now as the day it hit the page

About the Book

Peter Gordon’s The Sugar Club is a real one. It’s not just a nostalgia piece — the recipes hold up, the photography is timeless, and the whole thing feels like it could have been printed yesterday. This one’s been on my shelf for decades, signed by the man himself after we cooked together at the Tresanton Hotel in St Mawes, Cornwall. That signature makes it special… even if I’ve never cooked a recipe from this or any of the other 700 books I own.

Recipe – Watermelon & Feta
Fresh, simple, and perfect for this time of year. Late summer means watermelons are in peak nick — sweet, juicy, and ready to steal the show. This recipe balances that sweetness with salty feta and fresh herbs. Add a little grilled chicken or — better yet — some of my land-based cold-smoked salmon, and you’ve got a plate that’ll turn heads.

My Salmon Pairing

I’m not putting up a direct “copy” of Peter’s dish — he’s already nailed it. But here’s how I’d pair it: thick slices of my 7-day dry-aged, cold-smoked Danish salmon alongside that watermelon & feta. The salt from the salmon, the sweetness from the melon, and the tang from the feta… it’s a summer plate worth repeating.
(Insert photo of salmon + watermelon – Alt text: “Royal Nyborg Smokehouse salmon with watermelon & feta salad”)

My Take
Some recipes are trends; this one’s a keeper. I’ve seen it on menus from London to Auckland and it always works. It’s in that rare group of dishes that don’t age out. And the book? If you see a copy, grab it. Then stick it on the shelf — or better yet, cook from it.

Try It Yourself
Get yourself a ripe watermelon, some crumbly feta, and a fillet of my dry-aged salmon. Plate it up, pour something cold, and thank me later.
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